Babymoon in Bath

In prior posts, I’ve alluded to our rationale for choosing Bath as a base of operations on a trip to England during my wife’s pregnancy.  Among the reasons we chose Bath was the compact nature of the city.  Even with the slower pace and reduced stamina brought on by pregnancy, this was still a thoroughly walkable city.  By staying in a self-catering apartment (short-term lease) we were able to stay in a central locations without breaking the bank.  Additionally, you have the benefit of spreading out in a place that feels more like home than a hotel room.  The convenience of amenities like multiple grocery stores (one that stayed open late for those inevitable cravings), a multiplex movie theater, and the occasional ride in on of Bath’s ample taxis only confirmed that we made the right decision.

Location, Location, Location

One of the great things I continue to love about Great Britain is its rail system.  My British friends roll their eyes whenever I say this citing, “It’s rubbish compared to what it used to be.”  But compared to what we have in the USA, its heaven for those of us that to tolerate a country with no vision of rail transit.

And access to the rail system, particularly the Brunel’s Great Western Railway was part of the sale of flying into London’s Heathrow and vacationing in Bath.  We were able to take the Heathrow Express from T4 right into Paddington Station.  We had enough of a delay between trains to purchase Joy (my daughter) her Paddington Bear.  The genius here was that my wife could get in her well-deserved sleep while I fall back in love with the zooming-by English countryside.  The train stations at Heathrow, Paddington, and Bath Spa are all easy to navigate and, knowing the train schedule, taxi drivers line up waiting outside the station.

Not too Big, Not too Small, Just Right

Another factor in choosing Bath for a Babymoon is that fact that there is enough of a culture and tourism scene to keep you pacified for well over a week, there is not the overwhelming sense one has in a city like London where you feel overwhelmed by the possibility of what you are going to do every waking moment.  On the other hand, with our busy lives, we knew that if there was not something enticing, it might just be too tempting to lay in bed.  Bath does not disappoint.  While most of these will get their own treatment, here are some of the highlights of Bath:

Bath’s number one attraction, The Roman Ruins, has been attracting pilgrims for more than 2,000 years.  These warm waters in the middle of a cold, damp country must have been captivating to persons used to more temperate climates.  If not actually physically healing, the warm waters would have been restorative to mind and soul.

Immediately behind the Roman period (but immediately ahead, in the minds of some) is Bath’s prominence during the Georgian and Regency periods.  It was all the rage to “take the waters” in Bath.  The sensibilities of the age indicated that no longer did one need to bathe in it to achieve its medicinal effects.  During this period, one could simply drink it.  Nonetheless, people would come to Bath not only for medicinal purposes but also to be seen in proper society.  Of those attracted to Bath and its lures was one Jane Austen.  The Jane Austen Centre tells her story and her relation to Bath.  The also have a fantastic tea room as well as a can’t miss gift shop for the Jane Austen addict in your life.

If Regency Period England is your cup of tea, you won’t want to miss to miss the Assembly Rooms.  Located at the northern edge of the City Centre (which also happens to be the top of the hill) these were the ball rooms where people coming to Bath would gather each day for social activities.  Under the masterful coordination of Richard “Beau” Nash, your time in Bath was planned from the moment you arrive until you left.  That, if you were deemed by Mr. Nash as worthy of being admitted to the Bath Spa society.  As Master of Ceremonies, he played a little role in Regency Bath, but his role was never official.  While you are at the Assembly Rooms, make sure you take in the intriguing Fashion Museum.

Closely related to the Assembly Rooms was the Pump Room where thermal waters were pumped from their Roman Ruins to modern street levels so that people could drink.  You can too, if you wish.  Also, be sure to take in a show at the Theatre Royal.  Around since the 18th Century, the Theatre Royal is known for having some of the finest productions in the UK.  The are particularly known debuting productions before they run in London’s West End.

In between the the two periods Bath is most known for is a large swath of time.  The majority of that time, Bath was known for being a Christian religious center.  Located adjacent to the Roman Ruins, the monks of the Abbey became the purveyors of Bath’s healing waters.  Noted for this, it became a pilgrimage destination and, as a result, wealthy.  Of historical note, it was also at the Abbey Church where Edgar was crowned king of all England.  Today, the church is a vibrant center of faith, sponsoring mid-week organ concerts in addition to its schedule of worship services.  When you take the tour, be sure to check out this amazing statue:

As noted, one of the advantages of staying in Bath is the ample supply of well-appointed (luxurious, even), affordable apartments for rent.  Part of that luxury is the benefit of having a kitchen.  For many, part of going on vacation is the benefit of not having to cook.  But for travelers with food allergies or aversions (or even traveling with kids) having the option of sharing a meal “at home” is a benefit.  For many, the benefit of self-catering means that you can go to grocery store and pick up what ever you want for breakfast.  This is a good idea.  For us, this afforded us the option of eating out at lunch (which is cheaper than eating dinner out).  If kids are in tow, having the kitchen provides an option for being able to make a peanut butter sandwich and throwing it into a bag, should “junior” not like whatever is on the menu where you decide to eat lunch.  Also as noted, the abundance of grocers allows for the option of picking up dinner on the way home.

But if you are going to eat out, Bath will not disappoint.  Everywhere you look in Bath are places to eat.  Some are more ceremonial, like the tea room in the Jane Austen Centre or dining at the Pump Room.  Historically, there is the Sally Lunn house, the oldest house in Britain.  While you can get tea or even a full meal here, people as famous as Charles Dickens come here for the bread, which is amazing.  But there are also modern restaurants, including several gourmet pizza restaurants, many a pub, and (of course) take away chippy’s, pasty shoppes, and indian restaurants.

Bath is a town I had been to as a college student.  And, being honest, I wasn’t sure there was enough in and around Bath to satisfy touristy ambitions for over a week.  I was wrong.  And not only that, I look forward to going back to Bath, again.